- More photosynthesis, more chlorophyll, more sugars, more production. It’s that simple, now your plants can have more light energy and can put that energy into being super-efficient at what they do, growing.
- Life Light systems are not magic wands! These systems are tools for achieving maximum photosynthesis from your plants.
- Always use a light meter and a temperature gun when placing your light above the plants. Do not place it based on distance, such as 1 ft, or 8”. If the light is too close, you shut down photosynthesis, if it’s too far away, you don’t achieve the maximum results that you could have.
- The light meter and temp. gun are now the speedometer and tachometer for placing your light. Read more about this in the pages ahead, and feel free to contact us with any questions.
- Plants don’t have containers in Nature, so they grow larger when conditions are right. When we put plants in little pots, we restrict how big they can get. How wide the container is controls how big the plant gets, and the depth controls the height of the plant. Now, knowing that, we want to use wide, shallow containers if we want plants to form into bushes. They have all the room they need to grow, and you control how big they get.
- Containers control and shape the size of the plant, so choose carefully based on what you want to grow. If you choose a small container, you may end up bending a lot and not getting the best light penetration possible. Try a 10 gallon or 30 gallon grow bag, or a wider shallower container. Planter boxes are another decorative option.
- A light meter is the speedometer for your light. A simple digital light meter for taking your readings will do. When you take a reading at the canopy level, you’ll notice that the numbers are jumping up and down as the light spins over the meter. Look for the highest number, and you’ll see that same number on each revolution of the light. That’s the foot-candle reading at the leaf surface.
- Photosynthesis stops at 5500 FC on the leaf surface. If you want the plant to grow towards the light, the canopy reading should be 4000-4500 FC or so. If you want the plant to stop growing, it will grow to 5500FC and just stop growing. The plant will reach the light, but it won’t burn because the light is spinning. The light acts as a natural plant growth regulator!
- The ideal leaf temperature should be 76 degrees. For every degree of leaf temperature over 76 degrees your plant is at a loss of 10% of its photosynthetic ability. As far as a maximum leaf temperature is concerned, 86 degrees is the absolute max. At 86 degrees your plants stomata closes, and your plant is now in survival mode. What to do?
- Use an infrared temperature meter directly on the surface of the leaf. If necessary, adjust your spinner or the temperature of your air flow accordingly. The Ideal Leaf Temperature is 68-78 degrees
Life Light Technologies, Inc. Total System Amperage Ratings 100W BALLAST= 0.63AMP @ 120V 150W BALLAST= 1.33AMP @ 12OV 250W BALLAST= 2.20AMP @ 12OV 400W BALLAST= 2.70AMP @ 240V 600W BALLAST= 3.50AMP @ 240V 600W SUN SPINNER= .63AMP @ 120V X 6= 3.78AMP + 1.5AMP (MOTOR/FAN)
5.28AMP (TOTAL SYSTEM) 900W SUN SPINNER= 1.33AMP @ 120V X 6= 7.98AMP + 1.5AMP (MOTOR/FAN)
9.48AMP (TOTAL SYSTEM) 1000W STAR SPINNER= 2.2AMP @ 120V X 4= 8.8AMP + 1.5 AMP (MOTOR/FAN)
10.3AMP (TOTAL SYSTEM) 1600W STAR SPINNER= 2.7AMP @ 240V X 4= 10.8AMP+ 1.5AMP (MOTOR/FAN)
12.3AMP (TOTAL SYSTEM) 2400W STAR SPINNER= 3.5AMP @ 240V X 4= 14AMP + 1.5AMP (MOTOR/FAN)
15.5AMP (TOTAL SYSTEM)
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